Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park

Inokashira Street is all that stands between Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park and the park it is named after. The hotel is in Tomigaya, the quiet pocket of Shibuya known as Oku-Shibuya, deep Shibuya. Keiji Ashizawa and Norm Architects of Copenhagen made it seven storeys of concrete with the aggregate left showing, a traditional Japanese finish, and stepped it back in terraces whose planting spills over the rails. Inside, Japan and Scandinavia have shared the work and agreed on pale wood and copper, and the copper turns up wherever there is an excuse for it, from the front door, stamped with the hotel's name, to the dome of the pizza oven. The windows run from floor to ceiling. In the park-view rooms they hold nothing but treetops.

Recommended for anyone who wants Shibuya within a walk and a park to come back to, and for families who need a park more than a kids' club: there is none, and the park is across the road. The roof is the reason to book. Trunk (Pool Club) is for hotel guests only: a heated infinity pool open all year, a sunken fire pit beside it, and a copper raw bar heaped with oysters. The bar pours low- and no-alcohol drinks as well as its own cocktails, for anyone planning another swim. Downstairs, L'Ombelico bakes Neapolitan pizza in an Italian wood-fired oven for the whole neighbourhood, and its terrace takes pets as well as people. At sunset the pool turns the pink of the sky, the park goes black beyond its edge, and a single spire stands up out of the trees to say this is still Tokyo.