Praia do Canal Nature Retreat

Praia do Canal is the only hotel built inside the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park, on a 220-hectare estate near Aljezur, and the last of the road in is unpaved. At the top, low blocks of concrete the colour of sandstone sit on a plateau above a valley that runs down to the Atlantic. The infinity pool faces the same way, down the valley to the sea. On the lawn stands a red wicker beach chair with a hood, as if someone expected wind. In one bedroom, linen curtains hang from a black rail round the bed, and the far wall opens onto a terrace and the grass.

Recommended for families whose children are past wanting a kids' club, since there is none. The suite to ask for has two bedrooms, a garden and a plunge pool, and sleeps up to six; babysitting is about €20 an hour. Guests praise the breakfast. After it, the day goes by car or on horseback. Aljezur, ten minutes' drive, was founded by the Arabs in the 10th century and keeps its castle; the surf is at Monte Clérigo and Arrifana, within half an hour; and the hotel arranges guided walks on the Rota Vicentina. Esteva Spa has a Finnish sauna at 90°C and an ice-water plunge tank, for both ends of the thermometer before dinner. Dinner is contemporary Portuguese at Azeitona, or Atlantic prawns at Zimbro by the pool, with cocktails at Medronho infused with herbs from the reserve. Praia do Canal, the beach that shares the hotel's name, is fifteen minutes' drive: mostly pebble, at the mouth of a valley a stream has cut, with Needle Rock in view.