Parocks Luxury Hotel & Spa

Parocks is named for the wild, rocky landscape of Paros's east coast, and is a good deal tidier than its namesake: five low white buildings on a cliff above Ambelas, flat-roofed in the island's manner and built in 2022. Timber pergolas lay stripes of shadow across the terraces. Every room has water of its own, a pool or an open-air jacuzzi, and the one to book is a Signature Sea View Suite, where the pool has an infinity edge and a deep plastered arch frames the bed, with armchairs as round as the arch. Across the strait is Naxos, its mountains laid along the horizon. The main pool, curved like a peacock feather, runs past a bar under a long timber roof; a second is underground in the spa, beside the steam room and the sauna, for anyone who has seen enough of Naxos.

Recommended for couples who want a pool to themselves, and for families of four, who can take the Two-Bedroom Suite and its private pool; there is no kids club, but babysitting can be arranged. Seasalt, the open-air restaurant, cooks modern Mediterranean food with vegetables from the hotel's organic garden, and guests speak well of the breakfast. The beach is a few minutes' walk below, soft sand with a spritz on its menu, and Naoussa's harbour and bars are about five minutes by car. The concierge arranges boat trips to the neighbouring islands. Thanasis, a natural horse-whisperer by the hotel's account, keeps a stable in Ambelas and takes riders out early in the morning or at sunset: the one plan here that does not involve getting wet.