Under Canvas Yellowstone

Under Canvas began in 2012 with a camp in West Yellowstone, and this is it: canvas safari tents on Bar N Ranch land along Buttermilk Creek Road, west of town, with the Madison River beside the property and the park's West Entrance ten minutes' drive away. There is no wifi in any of them, on purpose, so the sky does the entertaining.

We had a Safari tent for two nights in June, and the wood burner inside it was the most important thing in it. The first night was cold enough to see our breath, and the phone the next morning said snow showers and 3°C. None of that mattered once we were in bed, which was cosy enough to make the cold part of the pleasure: under canvas, under the stars, and warm. Breakfast was in our rate.

The days belong to the park. Old Faithful is about 45 minutes away and Grand Prismatic Spring around an hour, and the camp's Adventures team will book whitewater rafting, horseback rides or fly fishing on the Madison, each paid for separately. Evenings come back to camp: a campfire every night with s'mores, dinner at Embers and a drink at the Bronco Bar. Anyone who would rather watch the stars without getting up can book a Stargazer tent, which has a viewing window over the bed.

Most tent types come in a "with Kids" version, and the largest sleeps seven, so families are as welcome as couples. The camp opens from mid-May to early September and closes for winter. There is no shuttle either; Under Canvas's own advice is to rent a car.