ULUM Moab

Moab's famous arches are a drive north, in the national park named after them. ULUM, on a sandstone plateau south of town, has one of its own three minutes' walk from the tents: Looking Glass Arch, where a guide will take guests on foot. The fifty suite tents stand on raised decks among juniper and scrub, cream canvas over peeled poles, each with a king bed and a wood-burning stove, and none with a television. Guests praise their privacy and their views. The lobby building is glass from floor to ceiling, with long tables of pale wood and an arch of red rock framed in the windows. Outside, fire pits are set into the sand beside white fabric sails, and there are three dipping pools to move between, one hot and one cold.

Recommended for anyone coming to Moab for its national parks between late March and late October, when ULUM is open, and for families as much as couples: a suite tent sleeps four and the family activities are included, though there is no kids' club. Arches is forty minutes' drive and Canyonlands about an hour, and the adventure concierge arranges canyoneering and whitewater rafting. Back at ULUM, yoga and sound baths are free, and some evenings there is live acoustic music at sunset before a seasonal dinner of regional cooking: a sage-rubbed bison steak, say, or a smoky juniper trout. Wi-Fi stops at the lobby, which leaves the deck to the stars. After a day in the canyons, the massages are given in a cave in the rock, by some distance the oldest room on the property.