Triana House Boutique Hotel

The headboards at Triana House are made of tiles, handmade in Triana, which is only right: the late-eighteenth-century house was once a pottery school, in the riverside quarter still known for its ceramics workshops. Amaro Sánchez de Moya designed the rebuild down to the furniture and gave each of the seven rooms a part of Andalusia to dress up as: olive trees on the wallpaper for Jaén, and walls of embossed green-and-gold leather for Córdoba. Underfoot, Carrara and Marquina marble is laid in herringbone. Behind all that pattern sits the least showy thing in the house, and perhaps the cleverest: it was the first hotel in Andalusia to be certified Passivhaus, airtight and ventilated round the clock through filters, which in a Seville August counts for more than the wallpaper.

Recommended for couples who want Seville's colour indoors as well as out, and who would rather eat in Triana's tapas bars than in a hotel restaurant, which is as well, since there is none. It is adults only, and every room sleeps two. Book the Premium with Terrace on the top floor: its private terrace has a tiled fountain, and the Church of Santa Ana across the rooftops. Breakfast is à la carte from local producers, artisan bread and Iberian ham with crushed tomato among them, served on the roof terrace when the weather allows. Guests find the street quiet for somewhere so close to the sights. Calle Betis lines the river with bar terraces, and San Jacinto Street has bars of its own. Room service keeps Spanish hours, half past one to half past three and eight until midnight, so a tapas crawl that falls short can be finished in bed.