L'Avenida

Sóller paid for its railway with oranges and lemons, and the line from Palma opened on 16 April 1912. The same year is inscribed on the façade of Joan Magraner's new house on the Gran Via, four minutes' walk from the station: Sóller limestone, with wrought iron worked into plants. The hotel's history says the evidence points to Joan Rubió i Bellver, the Gaudí disciple who designed Can Prunera, and leaves it there, a modesty the ironwork does not share. Inside, the rebuilt marble staircase climbs on a rail of iron vines and flowers that starts from a bird's head, and a black Chesterfield sits beside it under a large portrait of a man in a hat. In the courtyard the ivy has the walls, and the blue-tiled pool is left to the guests.

Recommended for couples who want a town rather than a resort: nobody under 18 is let in, and the middle of Sóller is outside the door. Book high, where the windows look over terracotta roofs and cypresses to the mountain. The Luxury Suites have four-poster beds and roll-top baths, and the attic Standard Double keeps its beams on show. The Bistro does breakfast, and lunch from April to September; for dinner the staff will book a table in town. They also arrange guided hiking and mountain biking, or a wine tasting for the day the legs give out. The tram followed the train in October 1913, wooden cars with red doors that leave from beside the station and run down to the palms of the harbour, where Sóller's oranges were once shipped to France.