Faena Hotel Miami Beach

The entrance hall at the Faena is nicknamed the cathedral, and it has the fittings for it: gold leaf on the ceiling, mosaic underfoot, altarpiece-sized murals by Juan Gatti, and at the far end a wall of glass with the sea in it. The building went up in 1948 as the Saxony, and the hotelier Alan Faena reopened it in 2015 in the Faena District, eight blocks of oceanfront that carry his name. Upstairs the rooms recall Miami Beach's Art Deco years. One facing the ocean has red velvet at the windows and on the sofa, Carrara marble in the bathroom and the sea through the balcony doors. A black staircase climbs between gold rails under wall lamps shaped like glass pineapples. Nobody seems to have been asked to hold back.

Recommended for couples who want Miami Beach at its most theatrical and will dress for it: Los Fuegos asks for no shorts, sandals or beachwear, and The Living Room is for over-21s after 5pm. The Faena Pool and the 100,000 square feet of sugar-white sand in front each have butlers of their own. The pool's bring fruit-infused water and will clean your sunglasses, which solves a problem few knew they had. Tierra Santa, the spa on the third floor, takes its treatments from South American shamanic traditions. Dinner is Francis Mallmann's open fire at Los Fuegos or Paul Qui's modern Asian cooking at Pao, and from Thursday to Saturday his El Secreto Omakase seats six at a counter. On those same three nights the old name lives on at the Saxony Bar, where the jazz goes from ten until three in the morning.