Desa Potato Head Bali

Each of the 1.8 million terracotta bricks in AM House was pressed by hand, by artisans in the Balinese village of Darmasaba, and through the day the walls change colour with the light. Andra Matin designed it, and the beach club on the sand, faced in thousands of reclaimed timber shutters. OMA, Rem Koolhaas's practice, added the second house in 2022: red brick again, and taller than the palms. Inside are Le Corbusier's B9 chairs and Louis Poulsen's PH5 lamps, and in every room refillable bottles and bamboo cutlery, because the hotel sends nothing to landfill, an ambitious policy for a building with a nightclub underneath. Ask for an Ocean Suite, which faces the Indian Ocean. The Sky Suites get the mountains of northwest Bali, the consolation prize at a beach club.

Recommended for anyone who wants the Potato Head Beach Club without a taxi home from it, and for families, who can have it by day. Its pool comes in two halves, one for families and one for adults, with a Balinese temple in the middle, and the club has its Sweet Potato Kids area; adults who would rather not share a pool with anyone's children have a third to themselves. Kaum, inside the club, does Indonesian sharing plates, and Bar Akademi builds its cocktails on native botanicals. The temples are the day out: Petitenget is ten minutes' walk up the coast, and Tanah Lot, on its cliff, thirty to forty-five minutes by car. After dark the club turns into a nightclub, open until two on Friday and Saturday nights. Between four and half past six, as the sun goes down over the sea, it charges at the door and gives the money back as drinks, so the sunset is free to anyone prepared to drink through it.