COMO Shambhala Estate

Tejasuara, the Sound of Fire, was built from 1,200 tonnes of stone brought from Sumba. The rest of the estate made do with what was to hand: local stone and wood under alang-alang thatch, set by Cheong Yew Kuan into 22 acres of forest on the Ayung River. Five residences and nine pool villas make 31 rooms, which leaves a great deal of forest each. In one bedroom the roof climbs to a peak of timber and woven matting over a carved panel, and the glass doors open on both sides to the planting. At Wanakasa the suites connect round a banyan tree. Ojas, the wellness centre, stands in a clearing near where the Ayung meets the Tibakauh, and on the hillside one pool steps down into another with nothing past either but palm trunks.

Recommended for anyone who has come to Bali to be put back together, and for a family or a group of friends big enough to fill a residence: Umabona sleeps fourteen and looks at Mount Batukaru from its own infinity pool. Children are kept out of the individual suites, so they stay in the villas and residences, with babysitting but no kids club. The yoga pavilion and the gym are included, and so is the cold plunge room, whose ice bath holds four: a sociable way to suffer. Glow cooks the COMO Shambhala menu all day to suit the programmes, so lunch counts as treatment, and Kudus House does Indonesian breakfasts and dinners. Guests praise the breakfast. Ubud is fifteen to twenty minutes by car. Tirta Empul is half an hour or more, for a purification ceremony, in case the estate's own spring has not finished the job.