Celestial All Suites Kefalonia

Every one of Celestial's forty suites has a plunge pool or a hot tub on its terrace, and there is still a long infinity pool to share. The suites are pale, flat-fronted blocks stepped up a pine hillside at Mousata, on Kefalonia's south coast, some under terracotta roofs. Inside, they keep to cream walls and pale wood, and a glass wall slides back onto the terrace, where the pergola lays stripes of shade across the floor. Seaward, the Ionian runs out to Zakynthos; inland stands Mount Ainos. Curtained daybeds line the communal pool, and at dusk the water is still enough to hold the mountain upside down, for anyone who would rather not climb it the right way up.

Recommended for couples who want a pool to themselves and the island within reach, and nobody under fifteen to bring. Book for the sea: the Deluxe and Signature sea-view suites are both 35 square metres with a pool, and the hotel lists nothing else to tell them apart, while the Galaxy Suite, at 75, gives up the pool and the sea for a hot tub and the forest. Trapezaki's sand and pebbles are ten minutes down the hill on foot, and the walk back is the other way. Bikes are taken seriously: the hotel hires and repairs them, maps the routes, and has a van to carry them on when the routes run out. Boat trips cross to Ithaca, and Argostoli is twenty minutes by car. Dinner is Mediterranean at Viola, until half past ten, and the ceiling over the pool terrace is set with small blue lights: a hotel called Celestial taking no chances with the sky.