Boheme

Boheme sells eight kinds of suite and puts Sunset & Sea View in the name of every one, so the real choice is what else is on the terrace: in five of them, a hot tub or a heated plunge pool. The hotel stands on the hill above Megali Ammos, 300 metres from the windmills, and claims shelter from the wind Mykonos Town is known for, which on this island is the more useful promise. It is built in the island's whitewash, with split cane laid over rough timber beams, so the shade falls in stripes across round white columns and the daybed cushions. Below, past the prickly pear, the shallows turn turquoise, with two low islets offshore. Indoors it is grey linen and a woven hanging over the bed.

Recommended for couples who want Mykonos Town on foot and the sunset from their own terrace, and for parents of teenagers, since the hotel takes guests from thirteen. Megali Ammos is 300 metres down the hill: ten minutes there, rather more back. The garden is the hardest-working thing on the property. A cooking class starts in it by picking the herbs, the same garden goes into the cocktails at Bilo Bar, and dinner at Bilo is grandmothers' recipes and the day's catch, with the Aegean in front of it.

By the free-form pool, the Matala Lounge does fresh juice and a light lunch. It shares its name with the bay on Crete where hippies lived in caves in the cliff in the 1960s, until the church and the military junta drove them out. Boheme's bohemians get the sunbeds, and keep their suites.