Lake Como

Bellagio stands on the point where Lake Como's three arms meet, which gives it the best position on the lake and the crowds that come with it. From there the water runs south-west to Como, south-east to Lecco and north to Colico, narrowing as it goes while the mountains close in. The southern and central shores are Mediterranean, and in the 18th and 19th centuries the nobility of Milan and further afield lined them with villas. Many of the grandest are hotels now.

Which shore to sleep on is the real decision. Como grew rich on silk, when mulberry trees lined the shore to feed the mills; it keeps a walled centre from the 12th century, the day-trippers of the 21st and the trains to Milan. The Western Shore, through Cernobbio to Moltrasio, once Churchill's summer retreat, is smart and keeps quiet about it. The middle is better placed for the boats: The Tremezzina faces Bellagio across the water, and Menaggio is where the ferries meet. The Eastern Shore, from Torno up to Varenna, has fewer crowds than the shore opposite, and a good view of it.

The days go back and forth across the water. The ferry between Menaggio, Varenna and Bellagio takes about 15 minutes, and in Bellagio the Salita Serbelloni climbs from the promenade to a view back down over the town. Villa Carlotta's park at Tremezzo is at its best in spring, when the azaleas and rhododendrons are out. Villa del Balbianello, on its promontory at Lenno, shuts its gardens on Mondays and Wednesdays, so check the day before setting out. Lunch at Tremezzo can be fish chosen fresh that day, at Da Giacomo al Lago on the shore. From Menaggio a trail climbs Monte Grona to a view over three lakes, which on Lake Como is two more than strictly necessary. Back in Como, the funicular from Piazza Alcide De Gasperi takes seven minutes to reach Brunate and a view over the lake and the Alps.

Come in May, June, September or October; July and August are the hottest and the busiest. Milan Malpensa is about an hour by car from Como, and nearer two from Bellagio and The Tremezzina. From November to March the ferries go over to a thinner timetable not built for sightseeing, and many of the grand hotels close for the winter. Villa d'Este is reported to have been the first to stay open through it, and a good many have yet to follow.