A hillside of white buildings with terracotta roofs and covered terraces, seen past a bank of blue and white hydrangeas with tall trees and a blue sky behind.
Madeira, Portugal

Yeotown Madeira

££££
Grown-up & familyRustic-luxeHeritageRecommended

Recommended by friends and by publications we trust. We have not stayed yet; it is high on our list.

Caminho do Verde 60, 9370-729 Arco da Calheta, Madeira, PortugalWebsite

A 17th-century farmhouse above Arco da Calheta that takes twelve guests at a time and sends them out along the levadas and into the cold sea pools of the coast.

Yeotown Madeira takes its guests on a Monday, in time for dinner, and lets them go on Saturday after lunch, twelve at most in an ordinary week. At the centre is a 17th-century farmhouse on five acres of hillside above Arco da Calheta, and the buildings are stepped along the slope around it, with railings made of branches and banks of blue and white hydrangeas below. Inside it is rattan and raffia, and from a balcony on the sea side the terraced hillside drops away to the roofs of the coast and the Atlantic. The rooms are named rather than numbered, Gratitude and Joy among them, and the sign by one door says Peace, which is a lot to promise before the first hike.

Recommended for anyone who would like a week in which somebody else has planned the exercise and the meals, and for families: children can join in, with the activities adapted on request. Movement comes first, on guided hikes through the valleys and old banana plantations and along the levadas. Then the cold water of the sea pools along the coast, while back on the estate the heated pool outside the main house takes the other side of the argument. Three massages come with the week. Meals are at The Yeotown Table, fed by the estate's permaculture garden, and the menu leaves out gluten, dairy, refined sugar, alcohol and coffee.

A stone building with a white-columned covered terrace and a hammock, beside dark red outbuildings set into a wooded hillside.
A dark red building with a covered porch and hammocks, seen past out-of-focus leaves in the foreground, set against a wooded hillside.
A bed with a woven rattan headboard, white pillows and a bright blue quilt, a round rattan mirror on the wall and cream curtains beside a glass door.
A living room with a cream sofa, a woven-shade arc lamp and a patterned wall hanging, its glass doors open to a balcony with a rattan chair and a view of trees and sky.
A small balcony table and two chairs behind a railing, looking out over a terraced hillside down to a coastal town and the sea.
A bathroom with a round mirror on a wood-panelled wall, a vessel sink on a wood counter, and a glass-walled walk-in shower.

The facts

Rooms

Rooms
11
Family rooms
Yes

Room types

  • Junior Classic Villa Room
  • Classic Villa Room
  • Classic Lodge Room
  • Villa Room
  • Villa Suite
  • One-Bedroom Junior Lodge
  • One-Bedroom Island Lodge

Pools

Pools
1
Heated
Yes

Food and drink

Restaurants
1
Bars
0
Worth booking
The Yeotown Table, the retreat's only dining room, built around its own permaculture garden and a gluten, dairy, alcohol and refined-sugar-free pescatarian menu
Board
Full board

Practical

Airport
Madeira Airport (Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport, FNC), at Santa Cruz, about 40 minutes
Beach
A drive, sand
Open
year round

Building

Built
17th century
Converted
2021

Services

Spa
Yes
Gym
Yes
Yoga
Yes
Shuttle
Yes
Laundry
Yes
Worth knowing
the daily guided hikes through the valleys and levadas, paired with cold-water immersion and the yoga and movement sessions that structure each day

What's nearby

Calheta beach and marina
about 5 minutes, a drive
Ponta do Sol
about 10 minutes, a drive
Rabaçal, for the Levada das 25 Fontes walk
about 20 minutes, a drive
Funchal
about 30 minutes, a drive