Rosewood Hong Kong

Holt's Wharf opened on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront in 1910, a godown terminal for John Swire & Sons and the Blue Funnel Line, with the railway station next door. The site now holds a 65-storey Kohn Pedersen Fox tower, and since 2019 Rosewood Hong Kong has had 43 floors of it, with interiors by Tony Chi. On a harbour lined with towers all facing one another, the hotel has competed on glass: its windows are some of the largest in the city. Which way they face is the decision that matters. The ones to want look across Victoria Harbour to the Hong Kong Island skyline, which is what the word Harbour in a room's name pays for.

Recommended for anyone who wants the harbour as the view from bed, and for families, who get children's menus in two of the restaurants and the Explorers Club: organised activities for five- to ten-year-olds, and a paid playroom for under-fives, who have to bring an adult. The Asaya Pool, 25 metres of outdoor infinity pool on the sixth floor, faces the harbour too, and that view is what guests praise. Two restaurants hold Michelin stars: The Legacy House, Cantonese and over the harbour, and CHAAT, which takes India's street food somewhere more refined. Afternoon tea in The Butterfly Room is taken under Damien Hirst's butterflies, floor to ceiling, which is more Hirst than most people take with their tea. The Cultural Ambassador gives private tours of the hotel's art, and of M+ and the Hong Kong Palace Museum, a short drive along the waterfront. Holt's Café makes a smart version of the cha chaan teng, the city's everyday café, and keeps the old wharf's name in business more than a century after it opened.