One&Only The Palm

The towers of Dubai Marina stand across the water from One&Only The Palm, out on the West Crescent at the far end of Palm Jumeirah, and from there they make a row on the horizon, which is the distance at which Dubai looks its best. The hotel itself stops at three storeys. Its Manor House, six beachfront mansions and four villas take their lines from Andalusia, set round courtyards and fountains, with fretwork and slender arches in walls of a creamy, ochre-tinged brown. In front are 450 metres of private sand. The rooms face either the towers or the open Gulf, so the choice is between looking at Dubai and looking away from it.

Recommended for couples who want Dubai close enough to visit and far enough to ignore, and for families, since the KidsOnly club takes four- to eleven-year-olds at no extra charge. That frees the grown-ups for Safina, the adults-only pool, while everyone else shares the Grand Pool, all 850 square metres of it. The Guerlain Spa, the only one in the UAE, keeps a third pool to itself. The private marina comes with a view of skydivers, and sailing and water-skiing for anyone content to stay nearer the water; a free boat leaves every hour for One&Only Royal Mirage on the mainland. Dinner is the reason not to take it. STAY by Yannick Alléno holds two Michelin stars and ends the meal in its pastry library, which, unlike most libraries, expects nothing back.