Capella Bangkok

Capella Bangkok takes its address from Charoen Krung, the city's oldest paved road, and then turns its back on it. Hamiltons International designed the hotel to face the Chao Phraya instead, ten floors high on the east bank, and all 101 rooms have floor-to-ceiling glass onto the river and a balcony or verandah to step out on. BAMO kept the interiors to marble and cream, with Thai latticework and woven rattan, quiet enough that nothing indoors argues with the water. The Verandahs have a raised plunge pool on the terrace, and the seven villas one each, in gardens that run down to the riverbank. Everyone else shares a saltwater pool among tropical trees at the water's edge: a short length with a long view.

Recommended for couples, and for families, who get two-bedroom suites and crafts and classes for the children every day. Having turned its back on the road, it sends most guests into town by water: the free boat leaves every hour for the skytrain at Saphan Taksin and for IconSiam, and Wat Arun and the Grand Palace are a longer ride upriver. The Capella Culturist arranges the temple visits and the Muay Thai. Phra Nakhon cooks Thai recipes after the district's old restaurants, in a conservatory, with herbs from the hotel's own greenhouse. Côte carries Mauro Colagreco's name. Davide Garavaglia, who trained at Colagreco's flagship in Menton, runs it day to day: French and Italian coastal cooking, and grilled foie gras with pomelo among the signatures. A dog of up to ten kilos may come too, but not into Côte, which leaves the foie gras to whoever brought it.