A drone view straight down on a tiled-roof building, a swimming pool, sun loungers and umbrellas, surrounded by lawn, pathways and trees.
Goa, India

Amaraanth

££
Grown-upHeritageCoastalRustic-luxeRecommended

Recommended by friends and by publications we trust. We have not stayed yet; it is high on our list.

Amaraanth, 2nd Fatrade, Varca, Kolve, Goa 403721Website

A family house in Varca with twelve suites, fewer walls than it started with, and the bath in the larger suites moved out under the sky.

The brief for the Binani family's house in Varca was to keep the building's footprint small and leave the rest to the garden, and the garden has had the better of the deal: mulberry for shade, and frangipani over grey stone terraces. George Seemon of Stapati kept the bones and took out walls, so that dining and lounging run into one another. The walls that stayed are laterite, the colour of the earth they stand on, under terracotta tiles; the twelve suites inside are cane and dark wood under a ceiling fan. In the Luxury and Signature Suites the bath is outdoors, open to the sky. The Signature swaps the balcony for a private yard and adds seventy square feet, which settles the choice.

Recommended for grown-ups who want a quiet stretch of the south coast and a house small enough to look after them: every suite has a butler, and breakfast in bed is in the rate. A private footpath runs through the garden to Fatrade Beach, seven to nine minutes away, and the 13.5-metre pool at the edge of the lawn is there for days when even that is too far. Ritu Dalmia's cooking at Amaraanth Kitchen runs from prawn balchao at breakfast to a coastal thali of Goan dishes, and the bar, The Lab, has named a tequila cocktail The Curry, which is either loyalty or nerve. The spa, The HVN, keeps a Hydrobed, a wet bed held at 38°C on which a massage, a scrub, a wrap, steam and a shower all happen without anyone getting up: breakfast in bed, taken to its logical end.

An outdoor lounge area with grey sofas and armchairs around low tables, the hotel's tiled roofline behind it lit by low sun.
A bedroom with a grey upholstered headboard and framed prints, its glass doors open onto a deck with a freestanding bathtub.
A drone view straight down on a swimming pool with a person swimming in a red swimsuit, sun loungers and umbrellas along one side.
A round thali tray holding rice, two flatbreads, four small bowls of curry and chutney, and a pappadum, on a wooden table.
A wooden lattice pergola over a stone path, with a person walking beneath it towards flowering shrubs and trees.

The facts

Rooms

Rooms
12

Room types

  • Comfort Suite
  • Luxury Suite
  • Signature Suite

Pools

Pools
1
Adults-only pool
No

Food and drink

Restaurants
1
Bars
1
Worth booking
Amaraanth Kitchen, chef Ritu Dalmia's all-day restaurant
Board
Room and breakfast

Practical

Airport
Goa Dabolim (GOI), 45 minutes
Beach
Short walk, sand

Building

Architect
George Seemon, Stapati

Services

Spa
Yes
Gym
Yes
Yoga
Yes
Shuttle
Yes
Room service
Yes
Laundry
Yes
Worth knowing
a yoga deck and reflexology walkway built around The HVN spa's heated "Hydrobed" treatments

What's nearby

Fatrade Beach
7 to 9 minutes, on foot
Varca Beach
2.3 km, a drive
Benaulim Beach
3.9 km, a drive
Colva Beach
7.1 km, a drive
Panjim and Old Goa
45 minutes, a drive